How, When, and Why to Modify Your Car

"CleverUsername" (CleverUsername)
08/14/2014 at 23:00 • Filed to: None

Recently, our good friend, !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! drove a very real and under-accepted point home; !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! But, once we have finally accepted this very reasonable piece of advice, we're left in a no-man's land, frozen in the headlights, afraid to turn a screw for fear that we might as well set fire to a pile of money.

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The worst part is that, in almost every case, this proves true. Despite what many burgeoning enthusiasts think, adding very personal touches to your car will almost always drive the value down. And while there are rare occasions where modification will increase the selling price, this is the exception, not the rule. Of course, logic isn't usually a big part of Jalopnik culture, so let's examine how, when and why modifying your car might be a good idea.

First, let's talk about why. There are exactly two reasons to modify your car: financial efficiency and individuality. That's it. Individuality speaks for itself, so let's talk about financial efficiency. Essentially, the attitude here is, "I will build what I can't afford." If we could afford to buy a Ferrari, we wouldn't bother bolting a supercharger onto a Corvette.

Of course, no matter why you do it, you're still risking devaluing your car with every inch you move it away from stock. With that being said, here are the acceptable scenarios for modifying your car:

1. You don't care about money. Let's face it; logic isn't the strong suit of car culture. We're prone to irrational car purchases and !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! Many of us have taken on wildly risky project cars after convincing ourselves (and usually our significant others) that the cost of a project would be reasonable. As it turns out, "reasonable" is a pretty big gray area.

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The bottom line here is that there is no bottom line if you just don't care.

2. You're not going to sell your car. Since I started driving, I've owned 12 cars. I have only sold one of them for a profit. The rest were either passed on to a family member or met their untimely end on the road. The point is that I just don't plan on selling any cars that I own. My goal is to drive them into the ground. I seem to have inherited this from my father, whose 1970 Volkswagen Beetle has a little over 700,000 miles on it.

If you never plan on offering your car up to the market, you'll never have to explain the choices you've made. The choice to buy those $1400 wheels is between you and your God.

3. Your car was a lost cause to begin with. Originality will almost always trump modification in the marketplace, but there's an exception if originality was never an option. When I bought my !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! , it was basically a rolling shell. There was no interior, the dash was in pieces in the trunk, the original motor was on it's way out, and the outdated suspension was begging for death. So, there was really no where to go but up. I think that it's a safe assumption that the car is worth more with the E30 4 cylinder and upgraded the suspension, wiring, and brakes than it was when it limped off the trailer.

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4. You know what you're doing. This is the tricky one. Everyone thinks they know what they are doing. Some actually do know what they are doing, but most of the time !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! .

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The exception is true competence. If Troy Trepanier builds your Buick or your car was featured on Overhaulin ' it's probably worth more now than in stock form. Of course, this usually means that so much money has been dumped into your car that you're bound to see some of it returned.

Now for the how. Here are some basic rules for modifying your car that will hopefully allow you to satisfy both your desire to modify and your desire not to make your car worthless.

- Consult Professionals. If you're looking to upgrade something, do it right. Ask the old guys on your car-specific forum. See what the tried and true upgrades are. Don't take your car to a shop that has never seen your model; seek out the knowledge of the elders.

- Keep the original parts. If you "upgrade" your new Camaro with low profile tires over bigger wheels and new suspension, do yourself a favor and keep the original stuff in a box in your attic. When it comes time to sell the car, you can return it to stock. Then just unload the enthusiast parts to other enthusiasts. Original parts may seem worthless now, but they will be rare and irreplaceable at some point, so you might as well keep them.

- Don't make irreversible modifications. Don't cut holes that you don't need to cut. Try to limit yourself to bolt-on modifications. Don't cut the wiring. No one wants to deal with your mess, so take your time and make sure that you can return your car to stock as much as possible.

- Go with the flow. No matter what you are modifying, a car company likely invested a lot of money into its development. It's unlikely that you are not going to eventually regret major aesthetic modification. So, try to understand what the manufacturer was going for and improve ever so slightly upon that idea. If your car is a base model and an upgraded version exists, look to that for inspiration.

- Don't expect to make money on a modification. This is probably the most important piece of advice that I can give you. Figure out exactly why you want to modify your car and act accordingly, but don't tell yourself the lie that you're making a good investment. Sure, it's possible that a new set of upgraded Bilstein coilovers are going to increase the price of your BMW, but it won't be comparable to what you actually paid for them. If you want to modify your car, go ahead, but don't delude yourself with dreams of raking in the profit because you bought some parts on eBay.

Of course, all of this is just opinion that I've developed in a few decades of car ownership, maintenance and modification. I'm not professional, but then, neither are you, right?

DISCUSSION (100)

Blunion05 drives a pink S2000 (USER WAS BANNED FOR THIS POST) > CleverUsername
08/14/2014 at 23:02

Doug isn't part of the Carbuying sub-blog. Just a friendly tip.

CleverUsername > Blunion05 drives a pink S2000 (USER WAS BANNED FOR THIS POST)
08/14/2014 at 23:05

Fixed. Thanks!

Viggen > CleverUsername
08/14/2014 at 23:06

I feel that Jeep Wranglers are the only vehicle this doesn't apply to.

Tom McParland > CleverUsername
08/14/2014 at 23:06

Doug has authorship on Car Buying as does all the Jalop editors...but Doug pretty much is a Jalopnik columnist. He may make guest appearances on CB on occasion.

CleverUsername > Tom McParland
08/14/2014 at 23:06

Fixed it. Thanks, Tom.

Tom McParland > CleverUsername
08/14/2014 at 23:09

No worries...your post does make some good points, except you know that Oppo stickers increase your resale value by 2.7% :D

Jcarr > CleverUsername
08/14/2014 at 23:16

To the front page with this!

Birddog > CleverUsername
08/14/2014 at 23:23

Pretty much on the head.

After a few decades of wrenching myself I've learned to never get emotionally attached.

Thats where most of these kids go wrong.

DanZman > CleverUsername
08/14/2014 at 23:24

LOL $1400 wheels. Your talking about $1400/ea right?

HammerheadFistpunch > Viggen
08/14/2014 at 23:58

well built 4x4's are a little different, but there is still a loosing value war...but yeah, 4x4's are different.

Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy > Tom McParland
08/15/2014 at 00:18

What about an "Oppo" license plate frame?

Salmanorguk > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:04

If you somehow kept the original parts you could take the aftermarket parts off and sell them separately and sell a stock car - gaining back a bit of the money.

Andrew P. Collins > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:04

I pretty much agree with everything said here.

Every time I buy a new vehicle (well, hasn't been THAT many times) I have these grandiose plans of exactly how I'm going to set it up, what I'm going to do, and then buy the time I can afford any "upgrades" I've become so emotionally attached to the "as-is" car I end up leaving it alone.

I mean, I hope I won't feel that way if I end up buying a derelict to restore (as per Item 3 above)... because otherwise I'm just going to become a lawn ornament collector in my old age.

...yeah, actually, that's definitely happening.

CleverUsername > Jcarr
08/15/2014 at 10:04

::wink, wink. nudge, nudge::

Remember dialing "popcorn" for the time? > Tom McParland
08/15/2014 at 10:06

That's all well and good for resale value ... how much torquepower does an "Oppo" sticker add?

Keith Moon > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:07

Keep the original parts. If you "upgrade" your new Camaro with low profile tires over bigger wheels and new suspension, do yourself a favor and keep the original stuff in a box in your attic. When it comes time to sell the car, you can return it to stock. Then just unload the enthusiast parts to other enthusiasts. Original parts may seem worthless now, but they will be rare and irreplaceable at some point, so you might as well keep them.

Best piece of advice. I keep telling people this, only to be ignored. "Who keeps the stupid stock control arm? This mod will increase the value". No, no, please keep that "stupid stock control arm", you'll need it later.

signintoburnerlol > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:09

Don't modify your car to impress the forum, modify it to impress you.

I can't preach that enough, it sometimes even happens here on Oppo.

CleverUsername > Salmanorguk
08/15/2014 at 10:10

This is the only way that you can hope to get any of your money back. Of course, your labor is going to be for free, but then, cars are a losing investment anyway.

jariten1781 > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:11

I've had luck with just not telling people it's modified. Not that I was lying and saying it's stock...just listing it giving the general condition of the car. As long as it's reasonably stock looking, most people have no clue and you can get market value pretty easily. Obviously doesn't apply to classics and collectibles. Nor does it apply to purchasers that take it for a PPI, but normal buyers don't do that.

cf06leo > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:11

The best time to modify a DD is when something breaks. Make it better, make it faster, make it STRONGER. MAKE IT ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Viperfan1 > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:11

I have always flipped cars since college for a profit or worst case, I get to drive for free and not lose money like most of my friends. Have owned 16 cars in 6 years with about half being modified and never add anything that can't be removed within 30 minutes or put back to stock before a sale. Too many people think all the labor and parts they put into their car should boost their value, but selling(and buying) cars has shown me that unmodified is much MUCH easier to sell. True, a $40k TT Supra with Ray's and a Veilside kit is probably worth it, but an unmolested Supra turbo would honestly be worth just as much.

Leon711 > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:12

- Don't expect to make money on a modification.

but my underbonnet insulation I fit to my mx5 in winter aids in getting the car up to temperature quicker saving me pennies every cold morning, eventually it'll make me money.

fritzo > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:12

I always like to do mods that are reversible, just in case. My favorites are things like:

1. Spacers: makes the car look "thicker" and more aggressive. Don't go crazy- 12mm or 15mm at most. Also easy to install and removeable.

2. Cold Air Intake (CAI): easy to install and remove if needed. Gives the engine a nice boost.

3. Speakers: Make your stereo sound better, but make sure the speakers fit in the existing trim without cutting things up. They should look OEM. Leave the radio head unit in place if at all possible. Nothing makes a car look more tacky than a new head with adapters in place to make it fit.

4. Decals: stripes or little accents are a great way to personalize, and they can be removed if they get worn.

I don't do much more than this (maybe wheel/caliper paint sometimes, but that depends on the car). I currently have a Cooper S I'm looking to have some fun with. The problem with a car like that is there are TOO MANY choices available :)

AZRCD > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:12

Well said, I think you pretty much nailed it. Especially with appearance mods, I really have yet to see a car with aftermarket appearance parts that actually looks better than the factory versions.

smashthegas > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:12

So I replaced all my rubber bushings with delrin and spherical bearings. Nobody is in a market for a racewagon, good thing I'm not planning on selling it.

Stradenko > Remember dialing "popcorn" for the time?
08/15/2014 at 10:13

Oppo stickers are good for at least a dozen torques.

Dream Theater of the Absurd > Salmanorguk
08/15/2014 at 10:13

That's what I plan to do if I ever have to part with mine. The only thing I've done to mine that isn't "bolt-on" is rolling the fender lips.

NickD > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:14

considering I've owned over 30 cars,modified all of them and made a profit or only lost a small amount in all of them, I think this list, and the modified article yesterday, are best taken with a grain of salt.

HiMyNameIsJayAgain > DanZman
08/15/2014 at 10:14

Most people who buy after market wheels aren't paying $1400/each.

Dream Theater of the Absurd > Keith Moon
08/15/2014 at 10:16

This is why I kept the stock springs and sway bars for my Miata. Not that I plan to get rid of it any time soon; if I stick to my plan I'll just pull off my revalved Konis and GC coil-overs and sell the rusted-out shell to an auto recycler.

TheCraigy > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:17

Yeah #2 FTW.

Seems like whenever I'm car shopping, there's a number of people who are selling a recently purchased, modded by themselves car. "Yeah I bought this, put all of this shit on it, and now I don't like it because of all the shit so won't you buy it from me?" Some aren't even asking top dollar... like they just want to liquidate it after dumping money on it.

Keith Moon > Dream Theater of the Absurd
08/15/2014 at 10:18

Yeah. The only situation where I would throw away an original part would be when it is completely broken. You blew your engine, then there's no use keeping it. But for every other scenario, I usually hang on to the original part.

ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) > Tom McParland
08/15/2014 at 10:20

Also adds +5 HP and +Eleventy AWESOME!

IHopeMyNameTastesLikeSardinesToTheseBitches > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:21

I used to go mod crazy - which was fun, but sometimes ruined the focus of the car.

In 2002 I found a bone stock Mustang LX 5.0 - it even had the intake snorkel still in place.

Eventually it because a heads/cam car, with drag shocks, 4.10s, Weld big and littles. The interior - i removed the rear seats, all the padding under the carpets, and even the tar sound deadener that ran from the fire wall to the base of the rear seats.

In the end I had a loud car that wasn't a lot of fun to drive. one day I swapped on some regular wheels, and it felt like a much better handling car, even with the drag shocks.

I ended up selling the car to get into motorcycles. but now I'm back into cars. I bought a C6 in March and the only mods I did were a cat-back, CAI, and a tune. And I just want to drive it. It's really fast enough as is - but there's still part of me that wants heads, cam, headers lol.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:21

The one point where I kind of disagree is that we are trying to build what we would otherwise buy. Personally, if I had Ferrari money, I'd rather buy one of the many tuners I like (perhaps import an R32 GT-R) and modify it to match my style. This is much more appealing than buying a supercar. It's the "Built it" rather than "Bought it" mentality.

Captain_Spadaro > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:23

What about correcting known flaws, like the rear subframes on E36/46s?

mierdv > Viggen
08/15/2014 at 10:23

Yep. I've seen to many dealers throw out modified Jeep Wrangler Sport models on the lot and jack that price up. If I get good pro installed mods I should get back some value over trade-in. (that means slightly bigger tires and nothing over a 3 inch lift. no regular person is going to want a Jeep they need a rope ladder to get in)

Gary Yogurt > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:24

Pretty solid advice. I resisted modifying my completely stock E30 for almost two years, but after 35,000 miles I finally put a very small sticker on the window.

CleverUsername > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow
08/15/2014 at 10:25

Then you fall into the individuality category. I've got you covered. ;)

barreto > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:26

For the love of God, do NOT cut the wiring. I've been chasing electrical issues in my E30 for months now because of a careless previous owner. I finally bought what I should have started with- a completely stock wiring harness.

Quade > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:26

I modify my cars because I like modifying them. Other people's opinions don't really matter. I'd say my 3 favorite modded cars were:

- 03 WRX with complete 05 STI swap. Including wiring harness and fuel tank. The only thing I didn't switch over was the automatic climate control (the WRX interior was nicer than the STI interior).

- 97 Civic hatch with JDM Type-R engine

- IS300 with Lexus V8 swap.

The car I took too far was an E36M3 with full cage. It just stopped being fun to drive.

It's all money wasted to have fun though. The whole point of a hobby is to blow money on things that are fun. If you love cars and working on cars, that's all that matters.

Your 4 rules only really apply to the snobs who like to judge other peoples mods. I don't judge. People who can only afford pep-boys/autozone mods are just as much my brothers as people who have real money to blow on cars. I respect the pep-boys modders more than I do the arm chair critics who've never taken an engine out of a car or have any idea of how a car works.

There's really only one rule: "Mod your car if you want to mod your car".

Ducky > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:28

Really, what this means is that you want to go the bolt-on route when it comes to car modification. That's fine too as it usually means at best, you get meaningful gains in the performance/personality area while not seriously changing the car. At worst, you find yourself making a mistake but it's quite easy to unfuck the car and sell the parts off. Cars are indeed a depreciating asset but some common sense on what you can do and what things will be worth when you resell them goes a long way.

I scratch my head when I see nearly brand new Toyobarus with their fenders being chopped off for body kits.

Of course to your other point, if you have a vintage vehicle where values are murky to begin with and no car is really "stock", potential buyers might not even bat an eye at your restomod if they check it out and find you did a great job on the build.

CleverUsername > NickD
08/15/2014 at 10:29

The Force is Strong With You.

You may be the exception, unless you're a shady, used car dealer and you're bilking people for all their worth. I didn't say that you couldn't make money; it's just not likely that the average enthusiast will.

StevenG > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow
08/15/2014 at 10:30

So paying someone to build it is better than buying one someone already built?
Unless you are doing 100% of the work, I don't see the difference.

Tommy861 > TheCraigy
08/15/2014 at 10:30

Or a lot of times they do a whole bunch of mods that screws up basic features of the car, and then are too cheap to spend the little bit of money to fix those issues or do the mods right (such as nearly every car I see with aftermarket wheels and the TPMS sensor light on on the dash because they were too cheap to swap them over or buy new ones). Then they want to push their heap off on you.

Quade > Captain_Spadaro
08/15/2014 at 10:30

What about correcting known flaws, like the rear subframes on E36/46s?

That's not a mod, that's a repair.

CleverUsername > AZRCD
08/15/2014 at 10:30

What?! You mean stick-on vents aren't cool? I've been lied to!

comingupmillhouse > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:30

One stop past the "consult professionals" advice- If you are modding a sports car find out who races them and wins, then copy off of them. Also, I think upgrading in this order is best:

1) Suspension - the best you can possibly afford. This should be the most expensive thing on the car

2) Wheels and tires (inform your suspension choice).

3) Brakes. Most people only needs to change pad compounds and fluid to get a lot more out of their brakes.

4) Power.

bbutle01 > Andrew P. Collins
08/15/2014 at 10:31

I have the same problem, different reasons. It's not because I fall in love with "as-is" it's that there are always more important, or at least more 'mature' things to spend the money on.

Tommy861 > AZRCD
08/15/2014 at 10:31

There's no better way to kick the crap out of a car's value than to put on a body kit and paint it, no matter how good the job is.

heeltoehero > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:31

Remember what you actually use your car for, not what you want your car to theoretically be able to do. $4500.00 triple adjustable remote reservoir shocks have no place on a car that is used to commute 4 (or 40) miles every day. Yes, they're the best. No you don't need them.

Personally, all my cars so far have been daily drivers, so I limit my mods to exhaust and suspension, both of which are fairly carefully considered (and then reconsidered, and reconsidered again when it comes to suspension).

Luckily I have a car with both a huge aftermarket and a huge enthusiast community, so barely used parts are all over the place. Springs, sways, and exhaust? Those things don't wear out (very high mile springs may sag, but doubtful). Buy used. Shocks? I'm okay buying used if I know the mileage on them. And I kept my stockers for the day I have to sell my car, and will sell all of my aftermarket stuff to anyone who wants it.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > StevenG
08/15/2014 at 10:32

I try to do absolutely as much work as possible on my cars. Of course some things may have to be outsourced to a shop if the build gets really extreme, but there's still a difference.

BecauseRacecar > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:32

I thought we all learned that making general statements is not wise......I have taken my jeep to three dealers for trade in value on a truck (now a homeowner) all of them offered what i paid for it brand new because of my mods.......

a-b- > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:32

So you mean to imply that bolting this huge, taller-than-my-car spoiler to my 82 Civic that will make it go X mph faster ISN'T going to increase it's resell value?!

You sir, are a bald-faced LIAR!

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:33

Ah gotchya. I misread that sentence. I'm an individual! WOOHOO!

StevenG > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow
08/15/2014 at 10:34

If you are paying someone else that is bought it, in my mind.

Not that I care either way. I much rather buy something properly designed, built well and tested, than bashed together by some random mechanic. Different strokes and all.

N51fanatic > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:34

Glad this made the front page. This needs to be stickied to the top of every car enthusiast message board and every craigslist cars for sale section.

"1992 Honda Civic DX: $20K"....yeah ok

Tt3Sheppard > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:34

I've learned a few things over the years when it comes to mods. Keep the stock parts! You are better off selling the modifications on forums and selling the car bone stock.

featherlite > HammerheadFistpunch
08/15/2014 at 10:34

I think this has a lot to do with the fact that most, not all, modifications that people tend to do on 4x4's are aimed at increasing capability. Most people in the market for these types of cars (modified 4x4's) are looking for just that. The more capable the vehicle, the more "useful" it is perceived to be, and the more people are often willing to pay for that increased "utility". I think this compares well to people willing to pay more for an SCCA race prepped car. If your buyer is in the right target market, your modifications may actually raise the sales price. Now, whether you got your invested money back or not, is a whole different story (to which the answer is most likely "No") .

maxmike181 > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:34

I modified my Ford Rsnger to make it a more capable truck off-road and in inclement weather. Understandably it doesn't increase the value but where I live in northern Canada it makes it more appealing to some buyers for hunting and other popular pastimes.

CleverUsername > a-b-
08/15/2014 at 10:35

But think of all the chicks you'll pull, man.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > StevenG
08/15/2014 at 10:35

The parts where I MIGHT end up outsourcing something would be custom fabbing, such as a v-mount intercooler or something. Although, if I was really putting that much time into a build I would probably spend the time to learn fabrication and do it myself.

CleverUsername > BecauseRacecar
08/15/2014 at 10:36

I thought that I was pretty clear that there are exceptions to the rule. Wranglers with popular modifications certainly fall into that wonderful categorical exception.

Tommy861 > barreto
08/15/2014 at 10:37

I used to install car stereos for a living. Every time I get a car or see a car that the person cut the factory harness to try and get a radio in there I just want to punch them in the face. Its literally $10 for a plug in harness. to prevent every issue and not make it a hand chopper to switch out the radio.

WhereTheSidewalkEnds > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:38

I think the biggest point that most people miss is keeping your stock parts. You are always going to lose money on a standard modern car as they are extremely depreciating assets (unless they are a limited production model). The same holds true for modifications. The general rule of thumb I have had is that AT BEST, you will see about a 1/10 return on the upgrades you do to a car (not changes but actual upgrades). This would be things such as a supercharger or big brake kit. However, that would probably be 6/10 return if you sold those parts piecemeal and return the car back to stock.

Modifications are for your enjoyment alone. They are by no means investments into a car unless its a resto-mod on a classic car that holds value or appreciates.

Expect to lose money, part out the upgrades before you sell the car and learn to do as much of the work yourself as you can and you will be a happier driver with more money in your checking account (which we all know will go into mods on your next car anyway).

StevenG > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow
08/15/2014 at 10:38

I get that and am not knocking it, just seems arbitrary.

Like I said, I much rather buy than build. I like building stuff, but I should not be building a road car. Nor would I buy any one off, that means untested, undocumented, and very likely not as well assembled. Look at the fit and finish issues people end up finding with those shed built english supercars for example. Somethings are just better done by a massive team of folks and equipment. If you don't care about that stuff and you just want individuality, all I ask is that you do not consult with will.i.am on your builds.

N/A POWAAAHH > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:40

In my case, driving a 2008 Impreza with almost 200k km, with plenty more to go, I would say that if the car is essentially worth nothing, mods are okay. I mean, it's worth something to me, but nothing on the market. Just look at all the modded 90's hondas, case closed.

CleverUsername > Quade
08/15/2014 at 10:40

I definitely belong to the Church of "Do what you want with your car." I'm just trying to advise people who have to balance their desire to modify with other real world needs, like the eventuality that they might have to sell it.

waytooslow > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:42

Old hot rods tend to break this rule. while an restored to original car from 1938 is nice. the value goes up when you swap to a sbc and ac

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > StevenG
08/15/2014 at 10:42

Lol I can certainly appreciate that sentiment. I am one of those OCD meticulous types who gets annoyed by the most minute details, even if I know that nobody but myself will notice them. I am a perfectionist who will not accept anything less than the best fit, finish, and quality. I know that this is definitely not the mentality of many build it guys though, and many garage builds come out looking like crap because people simply just want attention (will.i.am comes to mind lol) and don't really care about quality.

All that being said, I'd love an LFA. :D

CleverUsername > barreto
08/15/2014 at 10:42

In my `67 BMW 1600, I replaced the rat's nest harness (it had been chopped up to convert from 6V to 12V) with a complete 12V harness from a `69. I then built a separate harness to add on electronics that didn't require cutting the main harness. I doubt my car will ever go back to stock, but it's a Hell of a lot easier to diagnose electrical issues.

Bosshog1 > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:43

Bought a 06 Evolution IX new. Before it left the dealer i sent it to body shop had wing removed holes filed and painted.

1st round- perrin 3 inch down pipe, perrin 3inch catback, perrin filter and intake, dyno tune- 1000$

2nd round- auquamist hfs-3 water, meth, baffeled meth tank, perrin endlinks, exo X rimsSpecR springs, whiteline f/r sways, perrin fmic, corner balence, shifter bushings,ams lower intercooler pipe, stm test pipe- dyno tune= 2,600$

All this was done pretty quick after purchase. Its not about return on the dollar, its a hobby and a passion. people like to spend money on things that they like. I dont expect to make my money back, however im pretty sure i will never sell this car. I have looked to go up market audi or mercedes the fun factor just isnt there. I get a kick out of blowing unsupecting doors off. I do indeed have all the stock parts in storage every last bolt .

The above is really right on target, forums are a great way to become educated before you make any moves. You can read and see what people have done and the results before you choose what path you want to go. Always try and have a goal x amount of HP or quality of audio, handling, stopping etc. Or overall what you want from that vehicle.

talis1984 > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:44

You forgot one... Jeep. True a stock Jeep is a blank canvas, but one that is already lifted, has larger tires on it, a properly sized winch, upgraded bumbers with proper toe hooks, and the list goes on with gears, axles, racks, and God knows what else. A Jeep that has been set up for extreem off roading - even if bought by someone who thinks off roading is the gravel driveway in front of his house - will fetch more $$$ per pound than a stock (but still cool) Jeep.

CleverUsername > Gary Yogurt
08/15/2014 at 10:45

To be fair, E30s are pretty great in stock form.

That being said, I bought an E30 that needed just about every wearable part replaced. I replaced the suspension rubber with OEM stuff and upgraded to Bilstein shocks and springs. I also went for the Z3 quick ratio steering rack.

meatatarian > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:46

Cars aren't investments. They're either appliances or toys, or usually a bit of both.

Sethism > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:49

I go as far as to buy replacement stock parts if modifying the parts themselves.

Modding is great, but make sure you can return the car to stock if you ever want to see top-dollar at sale.

Most of my mods are hard to see (body braces, tasteful vinyl wrap touches, short-shifters, up-rated bushings, etc), but I always make sure they're reversible.

CleverUsername > Quade
08/15/2014 at 10:51

Like Quade said.

Basically, you have to have your finger on the pulse of the community and make an informed decision. For instance, installing a winch on a Wrangler is probably safe, just like fixing known problems with specific models.

Gary Yogurt > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:52

High five! I'm slowly replacing everything with BMW parts and suspension is coming up next. Bilstein HDs are in the future, and I just got some Euro ellipsoids. My car is a daily driver and the sealed-beam lows just aren't as safe as I'd like them to be.

Hey, how heavy is your Z3 rack? I'm presuming it's manual and I do not enjoy parallel parking or low-speed turns without power steering. I eventually want to get a smaller diameter steering wheel (for a bit more knee room, I'm tall) and when my rack's original seals fail I'll be scoping out an E36 or maybe something even quicker.

Tim the KNinja > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:54

As I commented on Doug's post, I have an RX-8 and most mods were for reliability and function (although I did give it a body kit to get rid of the smile, but it is a high quality, tasteful kit (Racing Beat type I). I don't plan on selling it, so that's good. All mods are reversible and I have the original parts still (although the front bumper is messed up). But that one category is important. A catch can and Sohn OMP adapter go a long way in prolonging engine (and apex seal) life. Upgraded coils will remove the need to replace them every 20k miles.

As I don't plan on selling it, it's all a "big whoop" case, but if the option ever did come up, I'd a) not plan on making a return on investment, b) wouldn't care because so much stuff has happened to it that insurance has covered more than the cost of the car plus several additions, and c) still hope that the buyer would understand that my mods were done with care for the car.

His Stigness > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:54

"Of course, logic isn't usually a big part of Jalopnik culture"

Thank you!!!

Lawyer_Applegate > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:55

I hear you saying that my plan to buy a Checker cab and put in an 8.1 liter Vortec with a stroker kit will lead to great happiness...

west-coaster > fritzo
08/15/2014 at 10:57

Aren't we a couple of decades past the "you need to add a cold air intake, because the factory set-up draws hot from under the hood" thing?

I can't remember the last time I saw a new car that didn't have its air intake right near the front (where the "cold" air is).

RidgeR5 > Keith Moon
08/15/2014 at 10:57

I've got several boxes of parts off my Mazda 3 that I've swapped out for "upgraded" parts. Just in case :)

EMF! > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow
08/15/2014 at 10:57

You would buy it, modify it, and then every time it spent cruise night in your driveway because it was broken you'd think "I should have bought the ferrari." It isn't a criticism of your capability, its just the problem with heavily modified vehicles: they never work right.

Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 10:58

I'd say one category of mods can make sense, when you are modding for efficiency and specifically when the cost of those mods can be recouped in a reasonable time frame due to gains in efficiency.

CleverUsername > Gary Yogurt
08/15/2014 at 10:59

The Z3 rack is a power rack and is fantastic. The stock was like 4 turns lock-to-lock and this one is 2.7. I honestly think that BMW should have done that from the beginning. It's the most non-stock modification to my E30, but it's really the best one.

That being said, I am being forced to sell it soon.......argh.

Bullitt Ride > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 11:01

!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!

...so there's rules now?

I'm going to write and article...

!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!

Don't let other people tell you how to live your life or spend your money.

The End.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > EMF!
08/15/2014 at 11:02

Oh I'm aware of that. lol

The most heavily modified car I've ever worked on was my buddy's Bugeye WRX with a Cosworth block, 42R turbo, custom v-mount intercooler, MoTeC M800, Volk CE28s, and a ton of other stuff. It hardly ever ran. lol

CleverUsername > waytooslow
08/15/2014 at 11:03

Basically, you have to be aware of the market. There aren't really that many people looking for perfectly stock 1924 Model Ts, so modifications might not matter.

GARedE34 > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 11:06

Crazy how this works isn't it? I bought an E39 M5 that the previous owner had put over $40,000 in Dinan upgrades into. The cost? $21,000. What did I wind up selling it for a year later due to constant maintenance nightmares? $21,500. Due to the mileage, those mods may have provided all of $5,000 of the value of that car on the used market.

Depreciation is a bitch, but the sunk costs of modifications, even really good ones, are horrendous.

GARedE34 > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 11:06

Depreciation is a bitch, but the sunk costs of modifications, even really good ones, are horrendous.

MikaelVroom > Viperfan1
08/15/2014 at 11:10

On the flip side, if what you want is a TT Veilside Supra, it's way cheaper to get one that somebody's already built, dumped money into, and taken the financial hit on.

McLarry > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 11:11

I enjoy watching 'Wheeler Dealers', and they usually concern themselves with restoring a car to its original condition, but there were a few cases (like putting a next-gen bumper kit on a G-Wagen and doing some ECU tuning on a Skyline) where they deviated from this model to take advantage of the market a bit. I agree that you shouldn't expect to make back what the mods cost you, but I would posit that 'the right mods done properly' can raise the value of your vehicle to more people than just you.

Excellent points!

GatorE46M3 > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 11:13

Another good recommendation that people realize that their "baby" with xyz mods is not worth 10k over the blue book value just because they waxed it every other night.

Monsterajr > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 11:13

My general rule of thumb with over the 30+yrs of driving and owning 22+ vehicles is that any acceptable mod for me is:

A. An upgrade to a deficient/damaged/inferior element of the vehicle that will ultimately result in a safer/faster/better performing vehicle. EX: Brembo vented rotors and pads when my stock ones are shot. I get better braking without making change that isn't reversible for a purist.

B. Personal taste with no thought of cost recoup at time of sale. EX: Fuzzy dice, tinted windows, Yosemite Sam mud flaps, etc... Again, generally easily reversible.

C. Marque specific upgrade to rectify known issues. EX: Alfa 164 HVAC stepper motor gears made of brass that replace the highly prone to failure plastic ones. If one shops for a 164, its one of the first questions that will come up.

CleverUsername > Bullitt Ride
08/15/2014 at 11:14

Not rules; advice.

Take it how you want, though. I'm all for doing whatever you want to your car, just don't expect to get your money back out of it if you modify the crap out of it.

CleverUsername > His Stigness
08/15/2014 at 11:15

For the record, I happily inhabit this category.

LankySean > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 11:22

I've been modifying one of my cars knowing I won't sell it. I've upgraded the front breaks and converted the rear from drum to disc, I've put in the motor from the higher end model into this one since the stock motor died and other than that I've kept it as stock as possible. I'm fairly sure that I could sell this for more than I have into it at this point but I no interest in doing so. Modifications, in my case, are out of necessity and safety.

Little Black Coupe Turned Silver > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 11:22

I'm soundly in #2, now with a good dash of #3. (Thanks GM for tanking resale value of Cobalts!)

I don't have many people busting down my door wanting to buy my track-prepped Cobalt that is full of pink details. Which is sad, because it's awesome.

Ben > CleverUsername
08/15/2014 at 11:23

Hey! Thats the G-Power M6 that my mechanic helped tune for Andrew Bynum when he played for the Lakers. South Bay Autohaus kicks ass! Too bad the car was Andrew Bynum's!